Brushless R/C Conversion
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motorfixer1
- Private 4
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- Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 5:28 pm
So, I've been into the R/C hobby for about 15 years off and on and in the last couple years I've been getting back into the swing of things. I've purchased a Traxxas Rustler VXL and a Losi Aftershock. After seeing the absolute blistering speed and power of the brushless system in the Rustler, I've decided to convert the Aftershock to brushless also. Losi brushless conversion kit, Castle creations 2200kv motor and speed control, and two venom 3s 5000mah batteries. Has anyone else done one of these 1/8 scale monster truck nitro to brushless conversions? I cant wait for the rest of the parts to get here tomorrow so I can get this thing running! I will post some pics if anyone is interested.
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Crna Legija
- First Sergeant 2
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i had a mini lst, and had the hobby shop do a brush less conversion kit before i picked it up. it was a rocket but the rear diff sucked nut sacks and i sold it before they had the strong replacement.
now i have a traxxas nitro sport its stock, but i don't really use it much only when we go camping.
now i have a traxxas nitro sport its stock, but i don't really use it much only when we go camping.
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Technician1002
- Captain
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- Joined: Sat Apr 04, 2009 11:10 am
Conversions are very easy unless you run into programming difficulties.
The mechanics is to remove the original motor and speed controller. Install the new motor and brushless speed control. Follow the directions. If the motor runs backward, reverse any two of the 3 motor leads.
The setup directions need to be followed to the letter. The transmitter will need to be on and the throttle set at the stop position (all the way down for a plane, centered for a car/boat with reverse) It will give a series of beeps when it is powered up. You may need to program it following the directions for either car or plane use. Some require a programming card to make the change.
Next is the hard part if you need to do it.
Many controllers need to be programmed to match the number of cells in your pack, the type of battery (lipo, Nicad, Lead Acid, or NiMH) as well as the motor parameters. When sold as a pair as a package with a motor most of those settings are already set. If you buy a motor and buy the ESC separately, you will need to program it to match your motor and battery pack.
I used to race 10th scale indi cars. They are very squirmy on a gym floor. Major drift action is the norm.
Edit, it looks like that controller is dedicated to that motor and fixed for a 6 cell LiPo battery. I always get a configurable controller, but that's just me. Then it could be used in a plane, boat, helicopter, robotics, etc with 3-6 cells, NiMh or LiPo, reversing, or braking, etc.
The mechanics is to remove the original motor and speed controller. Install the new motor and brushless speed control. Follow the directions. If the motor runs backward, reverse any two of the 3 motor leads.
The setup directions need to be followed to the letter. The transmitter will need to be on and the throttle set at the stop position (all the way down for a plane, centered for a car/boat with reverse) It will give a series of beeps when it is powered up. You may need to program it following the directions for either car or plane use. Some require a programming card to make the change.
Next is the hard part if you need to do it.
Many controllers need to be programmed to match the number of cells in your pack, the type of battery (lipo, Nicad, Lead Acid, or NiMH) as well as the motor parameters. When sold as a pair as a package with a motor most of those settings are already set. If you buy a motor and buy the ESC separately, you will need to program it to match your motor and battery pack.
I used to race 10th scale indi cars. They are very squirmy on a gym floor. Major drift action is the norm.
Edit, it looks like that controller is dedicated to that motor and fixed for a 6 cell LiPo battery. I always get a configurable controller, but that's just me. Then it could be used in a plane, boat, helicopter, robotics, etc with 3-6 cells, NiMh or LiPo, reversing, or braking, etc.
Last edited by Technician1002 on Thu Apr 07, 2011 5:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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motorfixer1
- Private 4
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- Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 5:28 pm
The castle creations esc is fully programmable as I have one for my 10th scale car also, thats why I chose that particular model. It has full reverse, braking and race mode capability.Edit, it looks like that controller is dedicated to that motor and fixed for a 6 cell LiPo battery. I always get a configurable controller, but that's just me. Then it could be used in a plane, boat, helicopter, robotics, etc with 3-6 cells, NiMh or LiPo, reversing, or braking, etc.
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Daltonultra
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The Mamba Monster ESC is completely programmable. Get the Castle Link software and adapter, and you can do all your tuning through your PC.
I have the same ESC/motor combo in my HPI Savage Flux, except with HPI stickers and a different can. It's an utter beast on 5S 5000mah (matched set of 2S and 3S) Make sure, if your truck came with any plastic gears, to convert them over to an all-metal drivetrain, preferably all hardened steel. Even then, the MMM/2200kv combo likes to eat pinion gears if the mesh is the slightest bit off.
Make sure you have good batteries. They have to be at LEAST 5000Mah, and at LEAST 25C, and of good quality. Anything less puts you in danger of puffing the batteries or smoking the ESC.
I have the same ESC/motor combo in my HPI Savage Flux, except with HPI stickers and a different can. It's an utter beast on 5S 5000mah (matched set of 2S and 3S) Make sure, if your truck came with any plastic gears, to convert them over to an all-metal drivetrain, preferably all hardened steel. Even then, the MMM/2200kv combo likes to eat pinion gears if the mesh is the slightest bit off.
Make sure you have good batteries. They have to be at LEAST 5000Mah, and at LEAST 25C, and of good quality. Anything less puts you in danger of puffing the batteries or smoking the ESC.
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