SpudFiles

I have a 2001 Ford ZX2.

In 7.5 years of driving it never got over 28 MPG.

It now never gets less than 32 MPG.

Here's how to do it:

Close off about 25% of the aire going into your engine with a piece of duct tape.

Here is how it works:

The engine is designed to run on a 14.7:1 air fuel mix.

The computer will adjust the engine parameters to maintain 14.7:1.

The Mass Airflow type sensors measure how much air is going into your engine.

More air, more gas, less air, less gas in order to maintain 14.7:1 NOT LEANER!.

In Denver at 1 mile altitude, you sensors 'see' less air, and the computer cuts back on the gas. A little less power, but 14.7:1 is maintained.

Restrict the air at sea level and the computer will reduce the gas to compensate thinking that it is in a higher altitude.

Up to about 70 MPH I see no difference in power.

I am working on an automatic butterfly that will open full when the accelerator is depressed past a certain point.

Try a piece of duct tape with about a 25% restriction. Disconnect one battery lead and short the lead to the other terminal to reset your computer.

If your engine will not idle, or it sets a code, cut some tape away and try again.

Worked great for me. 28>32 MPG

I have run about 10 tanks of gas with air restriction and the MPG gain is real.

Do NOT restrict air in a carburetor car, it will choke the engine.

FWIW YMMV

BoyntonStu

BTW I did not invent the air restriction idea.
Lyall Bailey in Australia pioneered this technique.

this is great ill try it in my mitsubishi montero im doing like 15mpg on a v6 my car is awful

so to reset the computer what do you do exactly

feathers wrote:this is great ill try it in my mitsubishi montero im doing like 15mpg on a v6 my car is awful

so to reset the computer what do you do exactly

Disconnect one battery lead and short the lead to the other terminal to reset your computer.

If your engine will not idle, or it sets a code, cut some tape away and try again.

Simple!

Try it and please report your results after using no less than a full tank.


BoyntonStu

wont that spark

edit: do you tape the intake or inside the tubes going to your filter

A simple block of wood under the gas pedal to prevent it opening bast 3/4 will do the same thing. Or, driving like there was an egg on the throttle and brake that you don't wish to squash. Limited movement of the throttle does the same thing as a throttle plate restriction. Driving habits or hardware enforced driving habits have the same effect. Flooring it going up the hills is done a little easier on the gas.

feathers wrote:wont that spark

edit: do you tape the intake or inside the tubes going to your filter

Past the air filter an where the large hose clamp is locate just before the MAP/MAF sensor.

You want clean air, but less of it.

Why do they sell 85 Octane in Denver?

Same reason, less air (density).

BoyntonStu

So what happens if you need the acceleration? I wouldn't feel comfortable entering the interstate at 40 mph...

Simple. You step out of your car (of course you don't stop), forget to open the bonnet, use your foot to reach in through the window and open it, get smacked in the face by the bonnet, and fall down. Luckily the passenger has grabbed your foot and rescued you. You climb back up, and get some clothing stuck in a fast rotating shaft. You then die from a potato being flung from the fan blades, earning a darwin award. Simple.

mark.f wrote:So what happens if you need the acceleration? I wouldn't feel comfortable entering the interstate at 40 mph...

"Up to about 70 MPH I see no difference in power. "

( I am working on a butterfly valve that will open for full power when called for.)


You are welcome to visit Florida and test drive my car.


BoyntonStu

feathers wrote:wont that spark

edit: do you tape the intake or inside the tubes going to your filter

One UNCONNECTED battery lead touched to the other lead had no spark potential.

You are not shorting out the battery.


BoyntonStu