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My First Pneumatic Cannon (making)

Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 10:59 pm
by DaGrimRaper
ok this is my very first pneumatic cannon (well actually sniper) and i was wondering b4 i buy all the parts i wanna see if this will work. heres my plans. and sry they look suckish but im on a laptop and i did feel like wasting an extra 20min perfecting it so here it is.
anyhow, any smart people tell if this thing will work or will it blow up in face.
and for the barrel the lever action and the barrel works. all i need is to attach all the other parts.

Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:06 pm
by Carlman
looks good except for the wye 45* and the bell reducer, use a T and a PRESSURE RATED 45* instead aswell as a reducing BUSHING instead of the bell.

Just make sure everything is pressure rated and you wont have a problem, except if stuff is to scale in that picture its massive overkill on the chamber

Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:23 pm
by DaGrimRaper
Carlman wrote:looks good except for the wye 45* and the bell reducer, use a T and a PRESSURE RATED 45* instead aswell as a reducing BUSHING instead of the bell.

Just make sure everything is pressure rated and you wont have a problem, except if stuff is to scale in that picture its massive overkill on the chamber
lol no its not to size.. i just tried to finish the pic asap. i have the plans drawn (not much better) but i know all my parts. ok for the bell reducer u said to use a T ???

Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:24 pm
by bigbob12345
As carlman said, USE PRESSURE RATED PARTS.(please dont get pissed at me for using all caps)
But the overall design looks pretty good. A 3in chamber is probably a little overkill though, a 2in chamber should fit your needs.

And your avatars funny :lol:

Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:27 pm
by DaGrimRaper
bigbob12345 wrote:As carlman said, USE PRESSURE RATED PARTS.(please dont get pissed at me for using all caps)
But the overall design looks pretty good. A 3in chamber is probably a little overkill though, a 2in chamber should fit your needs.

And your avatars funny :lol:
ok where can i get pressure rated parts? just at any hardware store? or are they bought specially? ok i guess i can go for a 2 in. i was thinking of a 4" at first lol...

thnks. i thought the fish thing was kinda funny too.

Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:59 pm
by OuchProgramme
DaGrimRaper wrote:
bigbob12345 wrote:As carlman said, USE PRESSURE RATED PARTS.(please dont get pissed at me for using all caps)
But the overall design looks pretty good. A 3in chamber is probably a little overkill though, a 2in chamber should fit your needs.

And your avatars funny :lol:
ok where can i get pressure rated parts? just at any hardware store? or are they bought specially? ok i guess i can go for a 2 in. i was thinking of a 4" at first lol...

thnks. i thought the fish thing was kinda funny too.
Your local hardware store should sell pressure rated parts
They say "NSF-PW, or NSF-61" on them

I forgot the other combos.

If you cant find them, then head to mcmaster.com

Some parts dont list whether its pressure rated or not, so becareful.

2 inch chamber? Still a bit overkill since you're using a sprinkler valve.
I suggest 1.25-1.5 inches.

For both preformance and aesthetic needs

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 12:33 am
by MrCrowley
I didn't write this for nothing:
http://www.spudfiles.com/spud_wiki/inde ... _Rated_PVC

Article on how to identify pressure rated PVC. :)

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 12:39 am
by jackssmirkingrevenge
You can buy a 4x20 scope for less than ten bucks that will be infinitely better than anything you can make yourself.

Also, your silencer shouldn't have holes in it :P

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:37 am
by BigGrib
for pressure rated parts if you're in the US any home depot or lowes or ace hardware usually carries pressure rated parts. what size sprinkler valve are you planning on using??

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 7:53 pm
by DaGrimRaper
BigGrib wrote:for pressure rated parts if you're in the US any home depot or lowes or ace hardware usually carries pressure rated parts. what size sprinkler valve are you planning on using??
a 1". heres the link here
MrCrowley wrote:I didn't write this for nothing:
http://www.spudfiles.com/spud_wiki/inde ... _Rated_PVC

Article on how to identify pressure rated PVC. :)
thnks dude. sry i didnt search for this.
jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:You can buy a 4x20 scope for less than ten bucks that will be infinitely better than anything you can make yourself.

Also, your silencer shouldn't have holes in it :P
yeah but im 14 and its hard to make money... all i can really do is mow the lawn and babysit. but i might get a job picking berries this summer :P. my friend said if there's holes it will help it silence sumhow? idk.

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:08 pm
by JDP12
no, you want it to be solid on the outside so the gas gets built up behind the projectile in the baffles, and slowwlly releases out the projectile hole ONLy. if you have all those holes on the outside the gas is released faster, which means it hasn't depressurized as much, which means its louder :D

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:11 pm
by DaGrimRaper
ilovetoblowthingsup wrote:no, you want it to be solid on the outside so the gas gets built up behind the projectile in the baffles, and slowwlly releases out the projectile hole ONLy. if you have all those holes on the outside the gas is released faster, which means it hasn't depressurized as much, which means its louder :D
hmmm.... ok. how come some real guns have holes on the barrels?

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:19 pm
by JDP12
that's just porting.. its sorta designed to just release the gas prematurely of the end of the barrel. it brings the power down a bit because the gas is being released before the projectile clears the barrel, so the projectile is receiving less force. also,it does quiet it A BIT, because the gas is released a bit before it clears the barrel at multiple spots, so technically it does silence it, but its almost neglible.

cue JSR in 5,4,3,2,1..

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:24 pm
by bigbob12345
DaGrimRaper wrote:
ilovetoblowthingsup wrote:no, you want it to be solid on the outside so the gas gets built up behind the projectile in the baffles, and slowwlly releases out the projectile hole ONLy. if you have all those holes on the outside the gas is released faster, which means it hasn't depressurized as much, which means its louder :D
hmmm.... ok. how come some real guns have holes on the barrels?
To make them look cool 8)


Although i think i am going to perform a test sometime in the next few weeks to settle this whether silencer should have holes in them or not debate.

It makes sense that it would be more affective without holes but I have heard numerous accounts of people saying that when they put holes in their silencer it worked much more affectively

edit: nevermind ilovetoblowstuffup beat me

Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:27 pm
by DaGrimRaper
bigbob12345 wrote:
DaGrimRaper wrote:
ilovetoblowthingsup wrote:no, you want it to be solid on the outside so the gas gets built up behind the projectile in the baffles, and slowwlly releases out the projectile hole ONLy. if you have all those holes on the outside the gas is released faster, which means it hasn't depressurized as much, which means its louder :D
hmmm.... ok. how come some real guns have holes on the barrels?
To make them look cool 8)


Although i think i am going to perform a test sometime in the next few weeks to settle this whether silencer should have holes in them or not debate.

It makes sense that it would be more affective without holes but I have heard numerous accounts of people saying that when they put holes in their silencer it worked much more affectively

edit: nevermind ilovetoblowstuffup beat me
ok let me know when u get results for that :P