Basic full-auto pneumatic
So I am attempting to build my first rapid fire gun and I think I have a pretty good design, except for one problem. I am planning to do a classic blow-forward bolt, which requires a section of pipe to fit closely inside another section and also requires o-ring seals. I don't have nada in the way of machine tools, so I can't lathe o-ring grooves or reduce pipe diameters or anything. What can I use as a bolt (fairly small caliber, I'm thinking 0.5"-1" barrel) and how can a seat o-rings without using machine tools?
- Gippeto
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1) Epoxy castings. Cast with the o-rings in place, and then clean up the grooves later. Perhaps cast things around a suitable pipe?
2) Prayer? (might work best if combined with option 1)
Put up a paint or similar drawing, and you might actually get some help.
2) Prayer? (might work best if combined with option 1)

Put up a paint or similar drawing, and you might actually get some help.

"It could be that the purpose of your life is to serve as a warning to others" – unknown
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
in my opinion there isn't a simple full auto pneumatic or else we'd all have them. post a mock up of ur design so u can get some real feedback. and for the o-ring grooves i had a similar problem so i made my own tool for it. it's just some hinged scrap wood with a file taped to it. u put the pipe in the groove, squeeze just enough, then twist the pipe against the file by hand. when u finish u can smooth the groove with fine sand paper or do what i did. spray it with just enough clear coat spray paint. cant get any smoother than that. it worked for me.
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WHY PAY FOR IT WHEN U CAN MAKE IT?
- jackssmirkingrevenge
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You don't really need o-rings, just components that are a tight fit, and as mentioned above, epoxy casting is a good way to go about this 

hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
If you don't have nada in the way of machine tools, just pull out your lathe and cut some o-ring grooves...easy.skyjive wrote:So I am attempting to build my first rapid fire gun and I think I have a pretty good design, except for one problem. I am planning to do a classic blow-forward bolt, which requires a section of pipe to fit closely inside another section and also requires o-ring seals. I don't have nada in the way of machine tools, so I can't lathe o-ring grooves or reduce pipe diameters or anything. What can I use as a bolt (fairly small caliber, I'm thinking 0.5"-1" barrel) and how can a seat o-rings without using machine tools?
But back in reality world, yeah, you don't necessarily need o-ring grooves. I think they might be able to improve efficiency a bit, but really, they are not essential. I never really liked blow forward bolts, because it seems like a huge percentage of the performance is being sacrificed for fully automatic capabilities.
...though I am the same person who refuses to put a breech loader on a ten foot barrel for fear of efficiency loss...for god sakes, I don't even take the things above 50 PSI, I don't know why I bother

jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:You don't really need o-rings, just components that are a tight fit, and as mentioned above, epoxy casting is a good way to go about this
what ever u say. but i'm just giving him what he asked for and sharing an idea. take it or leave it.
gippeto also says that prayer is involved. doesn't sound very simple at all. also epoxy isn't always in the budget.
with the tool i made i only payed $2 for the file, $1 for the clear paint, and already had the o-rings from crap i took apart. i'd pick this over epoxy any day (unless i couldn't find the right size part to groove).
ur right though. no need for o-rings on a blow forward bolt.
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- CasinoVanart
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I don't have o'rings on my "Blow forward "Bolt"" 

- jimmy101
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If you do decide to use O-rings it is pretty easy to cut the groove in soft metal (like copper) with a triangular file. Just mark a line around the piece and start filing. Take you time, and perhaps use a guide to keep the file square to the work piece.
You can smooth out the final groove by folding a piece of fine sand paper (perhaps 300 or 400 grit) around the file and doing a final wet sanding.
You could probably use a standard metal working file in place of the triangular file.
EDIT: engrish
You can smooth out the final groove by folding a piece of fine sand paper (perhaps 300 or 400 grit) around the file and doing a final wet sanding.
You could probably use a standard metal working file in place of the triangular file.
EDIT: engrish

u'll find that everything i do is ghetto. that's how it is when faced with an insufficient income (i ain't got no money, dog).skyjive wrote: although the ghetto o-ring cutting tool looks pretty sweet too.

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- jackssmirkingrevenge
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You probably don't want to go thereFishBoy wrote:mind elaborating?CasinoVanart wrote:I don't have o'rings on my "Blow forward "Bolt""


hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
Hi,
If you have a dremel, check the router table for it. You can stick a cutter tool in the dremel, set the height so it sticks up just a few mm, and then turn the part over the cutter.
Cylinder side and end cuts are both possible. Side: Use a wheel cutter. End: Use a router cutter.
I have used this successfully some times.
Regards
Soren[/url]
If you have a dremel, check the router table for it. You can stick a cutter tool in the dremel, set the height so it sticks up just a few mm, and then turn the part over the cutter.
Cylinder side and end cuts are both possible. Side: Use a wheel cutter. End: Use a router cutter.
I have used this successfully some times.
Regards
Soren[/url]