SpudFiles

I'm about to start putting together my first cannon ever and I plan to run it at around 125 psi. I've read PC Guys guide to solvent welding on the how to page and found it useful. But my question is, can I just use the normal welding procedure on the joint between my valve and the PVC? Is the plastic used in the valve soluble to the primer and PVC cement? If not how should I bond the two pieces? I'm using a 2" 200 PGA RainBird valve, http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Rain- ... 00-pga.htm. Also the inlet and outlet is threaded. Is that an issue?

Thanks in advance

if the inlet and outlet are threaded then just get threaded adapters and teflon tape.

rednecktatertosser wrote:if the inlet and outlet are threaded then just get threaded adapters and teflon tape.

Then you can use the valve on a bunch of guns, and not be like me, with a bunch of sprinklers all cemented to a seperate gun.

Yeah especially since those 2" valves are expensive.

Hi

As far as I know the Rain Bird valve casings are made of PVC .. and if the valve is not threaded, it should be for solvent welding.

But check the Rain Bird installation manual for the valve in any case.

Regards
Soren

Awesome, that definitely makes alot more sense than trying to weld it when its threaded. And one last thing I have heard that for larger valves blow guns don't work that well. Is this true or should a blow gun work fine?

tyguy2000 wrote:Awesome, that definitely makes alot more sense than trying to weld it when its threaded. And one last thing I have heard that for larger valves blow guns don't work that well. Is this true or should a blow gun work fine?

It would probably be better to actuate it with a 1" sprinkler (like an orbit) and then pilot that smaller sprinkler with a blowgun.

Though you could use a 1" sprinkler to pilot it, piloting a 2" sprinkler with a 1" sprinkler is kind of overkill.

You can pilot a 2" valve with a 1/2" or 3/4" ball valve no problem.

The "cool" way to do it, would, indeed, be to configure it with a 3/4" or 1" sprinkler valve to pilot the 2" sprinkler valve. Then you could pilot the 3/4" pilot valve with the electronic solenoid (and have electronic firing) or with a blowgun.

Never try to solvent weld a threaded adapter...

Peace,
Pete Zaria.

So is the whole point of actuating it with another sprinkler valve that it allows for a faster dumping of air so the first valve can open faster? If so is using a second valve that big of a deal because I thought that air can rush through blow valves pretty fast.

Hi,

Many blowguns restrict flow an awful lot. I have one that can't even properly open an 1" Rain Bird (but OK I have 50 cm of hose on between).

Yes using one valve to trigger another is a way of multiplying activation flows...

Regards
Soren

The PEB is a fiber poly type valve...so solvent welding wont work. I suggest using a Sch80 nipple on the chamber side.


I am using the same valve, and its awsome! I use a 1/4 ball valve now, but i think i am going to get a 3/4 orbit and make a electronic trigger!

dongfang wrote:Hi,

Many blowguns restrict flow an awful lot. I have one that can't even properly open an 1" Rain Bird (but OK I have 50 cm of hose on between).

Yes using one valve to trigger another is a way of multiplying activation flows...

Regards
Soren

blowguns can be modified for better flow.

I modified a blow valve for use with my 2" peb, and I still couldn't get enough flow...Did all for mods listed there!

wtf is a "peb"? and 2" is pushing it a bit

PEB is a valve model made by rainbird. Its a great valve and can flow a crap load of air. Hold PSI well, and the shell is strong!

I love it, but i just need to be able to dump my pilot air a lil faster!