HVC-1
Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2005 4:53 pm
<div align="center">HVC1
Provided By Fiebig - <a href="http://www.geocities.com/fiebigspudguns ... udguns/</a>
The HVC1 Ignition System is possibly the best way to ignite your propellant, right next to the stun gun. It employs a circuit including a big capacitor and an ignition coil. Rather than completely make this circuit from scratch, you can start with a pre made circuit board in an everyday item, and you can get them for free, disposable cameras. Spent disposable cameras are available pretty much any place that develops film. I go to Cord camera just because they are the friendliest to work with. All you have to do is go in and ask them for used disposable cameras, usually they will have loads and will give you all of them for free.
I'm not going to put plans for the chamber construction on this site because it is just a basic chamber with a project box and ignition coil on the side. I will however show you how to wire the circuit board with the ignition coil.
I think it best to show you my version of the chamber before explaining the wiring and such, so below left is a picture of the HVC1 ( H high V voltage C chamber Version 1 ) fully put together, and right, a close-up of the project box and coil.
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/ignitionleft.jpg">
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/ ... gniter.jpg">
The circuit board fits nicely into a 2" x 2.5" x 5" project box. The project box and coil can be strapped to the chamber using pipe straps or whatever you want to use. On the project box I have a key switch (Main power), a pushbutton (Safety discharge), and a AA battery holder. On the handle I have 2 pushbuttons (Charge and trigger).
OK, I think we can now take a look at the circuit board. So go ahead and open up one of your cameras (On Kodak Max cameras there should be a little clamp thing on the side opposite where the film goes, you can open it up with a screw driver). Be very careful not to touch the circuit board and especially the capacitor!!! If you do you run the risk of getting one hell of a shock. The camera may need a little gentle persuasion to get the case off. However, once it's off it should look something like this.
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/INSIDECAM.jpg">
The circuit board colour may be different but all the connections are pretty much the same. Once you have the case taken off, the first thing you will want to do is remove the battery and discharge the capacitor. The battery is on the underside and you should have no problem removing this. The capacitor needs to be discharged so you don't shock yourself while you're working. Take a screw driver, pliers, anything metal with a plastic or rubber handle and touch it to the two terminals. The whole idea is to short out the capacitor so there is no charge to shock you. When you short out the capacitor there will be a big spark.
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/CAPDIS.jpg">
OK now that you have discharged the capacitor you can go ahead and take out the circuit board. To make this a lot easier pop off the whole lens assembly. Just lift it right out and go ahead and look at it.
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/HVCPCBMAP.jpg">
As you can see this can become quite confusing... But I would start out by soldering appropriate lengths of wire onto your buttons and switches and planning out where they all will go. Once you have that all figured out drill your holes in your project box and wherever else you need to. stick the wires through in appropriate order and eventually into the box. Now comes the annoying part. Solder all the wires to their appropriate contacts. Once everything is all soldered in, test it just to make sure everything is working ok before you close it up. Once you have it working properly, close it up and strap the coil and box on however you want. Pipe straps are always good but you could use anything that will hold good and tight.
As you can see the spark from this system is big. very big.
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/ignitionleft.jpg">
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/ ... nright.jpg">
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/bigspark.jpg">
Unfortunately this system can be somewhat unreliable. Since the capacitor needs to charge to fire, pressing the trigger too early is a common problem. Also shorts in the wiring are a problem. Overall, when this system works, it works very well. However, when it doesn't work, it is annoying and takes some time to figure out what's wrong. I would recommend this system before moving up to stun gun ignition, but not for use as your main chamber.
Provided By Fiebig - <a href="http://www.geocities.com/fiebigspudguns ... /</a></div>
Provided By Fiebig - <a href="http://www.geocities.com/fiebigspudguns ... udguns/</a>
The HVC1 Ignition System is possibly the best way to ignite your propellant, right next to the stun gun. It employs a circuit including a big capacitor and an ignition coil. Rather than completely make this circuit from scratch, you can start with a pre made circuit board in an everyday item, and you can get them for free, disposable cameras. Spent disposable cameras are available pretty much any place that develops film. I go to Cord camera just because they are the friendliest to work with. All you have to do is go in and ask them for used disposable cameras, usually they will have loads and will give you all of them for free.
I'm not going to put plans for the chamber construction on this site because it is just a basic chamber with a project box and ignition coil on the side. I will however show you how to wire the circuit board with the ignition coil.
I think it best to show you my version of the chamber before explaining the wiring and such, so below left is a picture of the HVC1 ( H high V voltage C chamber Version 1 ) fully put together, and right, a close-up of the project box and coil.
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/ignitionleft.jpg">
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/ ... gniter.jpg">
The circuit board fits nicely into a 2" x 2.5" x 5" project box. The project box and coil can be strapped to the chamber using pipe straps or whatever you want to use. On the project box I have a key switch (Main power), a pushbutton (Safety discharge), and a AA battery holder. On the handle I have 2 pushbuttons (Charge and trigger).
OK, I think we can now take a look at the circuit board. So go ahead and open up one of your cameras (On Kodak Max cameras there should be a little clamp thing on the side opposite where the film goes, you can open it up with a screw driver). Be very careful not to touch the circuit board and especially the capacitor!!! If you do you run the risk of getting one hell of a shock. The camera may need a little gentle persuasion to get the case off. However, once it's off it should look something like this.
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/INSIDECAM.jpg">
The circuit board colour may be different but all the connections are pretty much the same. Once you have the case taken off, the first thing you will want to do is remove the battery and discharge the capacitor. The battery is on the underside and you should have no problem removing this. The capacitor needs to be discharged so you don't shock yourself while you're working. Take a screw driver, pliers, anything metal with a plastic or rubber handle and touch it to the two terminals. The whole idea is to short out the capacitor so there is no charge to shock you. When you short out the capacitor there will be a big spark.
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/CAPDIS.jpg">
OK now that you have discharged the capacitor you can go ahead and take out the circuit board. To make this a lot easier pop off the whole lens assembly. Just lift it right out and go ahead and look at it.
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/HVCPCBMAP.jpg">
As you can see this can become quite confusing... But I would start out by soldering appropriate lengths of wire onto your buttons and switches and planning out where they all will go. Once you have that all figured out drill your holes in your project box and wherever else you need to. stick the wires through in appropriate order and eventually into the box. Now comes the annoying part. Solder all the wires to their appropriate contacts. Once everything is all soldered in, test it just to make sure everything is working ok before you close it up. Once you have it working properly, close it up and strap the coil and box on however you want. Pipe straps are always good but you could use anything that will hold good and tight.
As you can see the spark from this system is big. very big.
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/ignitionleft.jpg">
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/ ... nright.jpg">
<img src="http://www.spudfiles.com/official_pics/bigspark.jpg">
Unfortunately this system can be somewhat unreliable. Since the capacitor needs to charge to fire, pressing the trigger too early is a common problem. Also shorts in the wiring are a problem. Overall, when this system works, it works very well. However, when it doesn't work, it is annoying and takes some time to figure out what's wrong. I would recommend this system before moving up to stun gun ignition, but not for use as your main chamber.
Provided By Fiebig - <a href="http://www.geocities.com/fiebigspudguns ... /</a></div>
didnt have to add any wires except the wires to the coil.
It hurt like hell!
oh and you can edit posts, you dont need to make a quadrupile post
!
