Sleeve pipe

TollBooth · Thu May 14, 2009 8:32 pm

Alright i tried to sleeve SDR21 1.5 into SCH 80 2" trying to make a golf ball barrel. Did not get to far... is there a special way to go about doing this?

covey12 · Thu May 14, 2009 8:35 pm

did you cut a slit out of the sch.80, so that it will look like a C, when looking down the barrel, only make it about .5cm, try that, you might be able to get away with one cut, but normally you need 2 for a gap

jook13 · Thu May 14, 2009 9:32 pm

I used a sledge hammer, some greese, and about 45 minutes.

Some people have an easier time getting it in there, others dont. I guess it depends on the manufacturer of the pipe.

jagerbond · Thu May 14, 2009 9:47 pm

You could try allthread and some endplates.

Mike
Sureshot / http://www.ultimatespudgun.com

USGF · Thu May 14, 2009 11:28 pm

Don't use brass All thread. Stick with steel, 3/8 or preferably 1/2". You gotta grease the threads or you will run into problems.

jmeyer1022 · Thu May 14, 2009 11:40 pm

WD-40 on the pipe a rubber mallet and it will slide nice.

Carlman · Thu May 14, 2009 11:54 pm

USGF wrote:Don't use brass All thread. Stick with steel, 3/8 or preferably 1/2". You gotta grease the threads or you will run into problems.

What are you on about?

USGF · Fri May 15, 2009 4:41 am

Carlman wrote:
USGF wrote:Don't use brass All thread. Stick with steel, 3/8 or preferably 1/2". You gotta grease the threads or you will run into problems.
What are you on about?

Carlman, I was simply elaborating on Jagerbonds all thread and endplates technique. He uses two large endplates (sorta like two overgrown flat washers) along with a long piece of all thread. AKA threaded rod. By simply wrenching down on the nuts, it will slide the telscoping parts together with lots of force but no shock so as to minimize damage to the ends etc. You will spin the nut for quite a while, a low grade stovebolt style nut will wear out in minutes, a hardened nut from an industrial source along with anti sieze or good grease will make it last. BTW, we can get 1/2 all thread up to 12 foot long at Homedepot. You can always couple shorter lengths together with coupling nuts to make a really long device. Sorry about the confusion.

JSR, Yep, down there wrenching on me nuts.

Carlman · Fri May 15, 2009 4:59 am

Sorry mate, brass allthread here is a plumbing item (aka spudding item) its a brass allthread pipe nipple.

Yes steel threaded rod is perfect.

Sorry i thought you may have posted in here incorrectly.

jeepkahn · Fri May 15, 2009 10:45 am

LOL... you shoulda seen me doing a fullsleeve job on a 10' long barrel....

Luckily my shop has 24 ft ceilings, so I used a floor jack to press it up against a roof truss and then used a bike lift to get extra height, amd finally got it together enough to be able to put it under the garage door frame... It was quite comical...

Technician1002 · Fri May 15, 2009 11:08 am

jeepkahn wrote:LOL... you shoulda seen me doing a fullsleeve job on a 10' long barrel....

Luckily my shop has 24 ft ceilings, so I used a floor jack to press it up against a roof truss and then used a bike lift to get extra height, amd finally got it together enough to be able to put it under the garage door frame... It was quite comical...

Don't forget with a little heat, PVC expands and softens. Here is an example. Instead of buying a couple 6 inch couplers, I simply swedged the ends of the 6 inch pipe to accept a 6 inch to 4 inch sched 80 reducer for the breech and a 6 inch to 3 inch sched 40 reducer for the muzzle end of this air cannon. You can't buy PVC pipe with a bell on each end.

The finished cannon is a 2.5 inch piston tennis ball cannon. I call it "The Dragon". Both sides of the chamber has the same dragon.

MountainousDew · Fri May 15, 2009 3:11 pm

Technician1002 wrote:MountainousDew is the coolest guy in the world!

Thank you...

@Tollbooth: Grease your pipe as much as you can before you stick it in the hole of the other pipe and use a lot of force to really get it in there.

Edit: Tech, wouldn't stretching the pipe like you did reduce the wall thickness and possibly increase the probability of a failure to occur?

john bunsenburner · Fri May 15, 2009 3:19 pm

Grease your pipe as much as you can before you stick it in the hole of the other pipe and use a lot of force to really get it in there.

WOW, this started of as a spudgunning forum...

MountainousDew · Fri May 15, 2009 3:28 pm

john bunsenburner wrote:
Grease your pipe as much as you can before you stick it in the hole of the other pipe and use a lot of force to really get it in there.
WOW, this started of as a spudgunning forum...

Everyone has been making references on other topics, and I thought that this would be the best topic to use an innuendo on... So, I wrote it, and it is actually good advice for many different situations!

john bunsenburner · Fri May 15, 2009 3:31 pm

Haha, nice one!