yes.csgunner wrote:Is a smokebomb considered incendiary?
Ammo Ideas
i now they sell those mini ball molds some wear if some one now pm me please i have this mini ball two but it is a anciant and its made out of tin i think its a lot harder then lead hmmm but if anyone nows wear to get those mini ball moold pm me
i have made really good ammo with a bucket of sand and liqued lead take a dart from a dard game, stick it in sand then take it out the imprint should still be there then you pour the lead or liqued metal. then bam you have a lead dart,thats better then a blow dart. then stick in some wadding behind the dart and it flys as striaght as a bullet 8)
i have made really good ammo with a bucket of sand and liqued lead take a dart from a dard game, stick it in sand then take it out the imprint should still be there then you pour the lead or liqued metal. then bam you have a lead dart,thats better then a blow dart. then stick in some wadding behind the dart and it flys as striaght as a bullet 8)
I scrolled down through this thread and didn't see these ideas for ammo:
1. 1" sch40= the little trial size squeeze bottles of contact lens solution or eyedrops( you can fill with water, sand, etc.), small tubes from hand lotion/cosmetics(wait until your wife has used them up cut the bottom off, put a nail through the hole in the lid, screw the lid back on for a blow dart).
2. 1.5" sch40= empty toothpaste tubes( use similar to lotion tubes), the clear 7oz. craft bottles (fill with water and cyalume for at nite) I do think I saw something similar posted previously.
3. 2" sch40= take golfballs, wrap a shoprag around it and ziptie to make a great short-range recoverable "shuttlecock". use 2" pipe insulation about 5" long and wrap the first 2"-3" TIGHTLY with black or duct tape, leave 1/2" at front unwrapped if you want a nerfable dart.
1. 1" sch40= the little trial size squeeze bottles of contact lens solution or eyedrops( you can fill with water, sand, etc.), small tubes from hand lotion/cosmetics(wait until your wife has used them up cut the bottom off, put a nail through the hole in the lid, screw the lid back on for a blow dart).
2. 1.5" sch40= empty toothpaste tubes( use similar to lotion tubes), the clear 7oz. craft bottles (fill with water and cyalume for at nite) I do think I saw something similar posted previously.
3. 2" sch40= take golfballs, wrap a shoprag around it and ziptie to make a great short-range recoverable "shuttlecock". use 2" pipe insulation about 5" long and wrap the first 2"-3" TIGHTLY with black or duct tape, leave 1/2" at front unwrapped if you want a nerfable dart.
Ping pong balls. not in 1 1/2 pvc but in 1 1/4 sdr 26 sleeved in 1 1/2 sdr 21.
they fit perfect and you can fill them with anything.
they fit perfect and you can fill them with anything.
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These are neat little blowdarts for a 1" barrell...
Take a 4" long 1/4" steel rod, chuck into a drill and sharpen on a grinder or belt sander, then take 2.5" of 3/16" rubber vacuum hose and slice 2.25" of "feathers" into it,then you slide the tube onto the steel dart(it's a tight fit) until you've got 1/2" of the rod coming past the start of the "feathers", then you take a piece of 1" wooden dowel slightly longer than an inch, and drill a 1/4" or 9/32" hole in the center about 5/16" deep, when loading fold the feather toward the front of the dart and insert the exposed shaft into the dowel (you don't want it to snug of a fit to ensure seperation, but not so loose as to allow the dart to just rattle around)....
at ranges of at least 30ft, the sabot will seperate completely(but it will still carry a wallop of it's own) and the dart will fly straight as an arrow, upon entry the rubber tail will be stripped off allowing the steel to continue penetrating without drag...
and even at ranges over 200yds the dart still hits the target straight and true, no "tumble" at all...
and at about 15degrees it had a range of 385yds out of my 66"x1" barreled coax, with a 33"x2" chamber pressurized to 120psi...
Take a 4" long 1/4" steel rod, chuck into a drill and sharpen on a grinder or belt sander, then take 2.5" of 3/16" rubber vacuum hose and slice 2.25" of "feathers" into it,then you slide the tube onto the steel dart(it's a tight fit) until you've got 1/2" of the rod coming past the start of the "feathers", then you take a piece of 1" wooden dowel slightly longer than an inch, and drill a 1/4" or 9/32" hole in the center about 5/16" deep, when loading fold the feather toward the front of the dart and insert the exposed shaft into the dowel (you don't want it to snug of a fit to ensure seperation, but not so loose as to allow the dart to just rattle around)....
at ranges of at least 30ft, the sabot will seperate completely(but it will still carry a wallop of it's own) and the dart will fly straight as an arrow, upon entry the rubber tail will be stripped off allowing the steel to continue penetrating without drag...
and even at ranges over 200yds the dart still hits the target straight and true, no "tumble" at all...
and at about 15degrees it had a range of 385yds out of my 66"x1" barreled coax, with a 33"x2" chamber pressurized to 120psi...
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small marshmallows fit pretty well in blowguns(i.e. 3/8" pipe) if you roll them out a bit first
- suburban spudgunner
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Jeepkahn: I've discovered some similar ammo recently at my local hardware store.
By the way, anything saying I can't post a video here? Just curious.
By the way, anything saying I can't post a video here? Just curious.
The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
- suburban spudgunner
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My camera gets a bit wierd in cold weather...And I didn't know I had a deformed finger...
These work great, even out of my crappy little ball valve pneumatic. Let me see if I can figure out how to link to the video...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vV02HrkRHY
These work great, even out of my crappy little ball valve pneumatic. Let me see if I can figure out how to link to the video...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vV02HrkRHY
The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
- POLAND_SPUD
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well I don't know if it is a viable post here but I've been observing this thread and I think that most ideas here are far form being practical...
esspecialy for small bore guns which normaly achieve higher velocities... I don't know if it's just me but normally there is no way to safely fire and retrive ammo afterwards
so IMO it isn't practical to make ammo that:
A costs a lot,
B is built from stuff you don't have or can't obtain cheap and or in large quantities ('small tubes from hand lotion/cosmetics' doesn't count as easily obtainable )
C is imposible to reuse/find
D takes a lot of time to make
I fired all the different (and sometimes weird) stuff... but in the end the only ammo I use are marbles and sometimes steel bolts
before you flame me... think about it
esspecialy for small bore guns which normaly achieve higher velocities... I don't know if it's just me but normally there is no way to safely fire and retrive ammo afterwards
so IMO it isn't practical to make ammo that:
A costs a lot,
B is built from stuff you don't have or can't obtain cheap and or in large quantities ('small tubes from hand lotion/cosmetics' doesn't count as easily obtainable )
C is imposible to reuse/find
D takes a lot of time to make
I fired all the different (and sometimes weird) stuff... but in the end the only ammo I use are marbles and sometimes steel bolts
before you flame me... think about it
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unless we stop them now
- Lentamentalisk
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Well you have two different concepts there.
It really should be broken up like this:
Ammo must either be easy and cheap to make with readily accessible materials, OR, it must be easy to find and reuse.
Making flour fireball rounds is fine, though they arn't reusable, and as is the giant 2" McMaster ball barrings, though they are fiercely expensive.
It really should be broken up like this:
Ammo must either be easy and cheap to make with readily accessible materials, OR, it must be easy to find and reuse.
Making flour fireball rounds is fine, though they arn't reusable, and as is the giant 2" McMaster ball barrings, though they are fiercely expensive.
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Live life in the present, and make it so beautiful that it will be worth remembering.
- suburban spudgunner
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If you set up your range right, you can always retrieve reusable ammo.
The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
My one concern with your video is "WHAT'S BEHIND YOUR BACKSTOP"???... I'm not bragging(because mine is anything but the most powerful on here), but with my small coax and my darts, unless I hit a framing stud, the dart would've ended up in the house with a vengance<sic>.... Did I mention that the plywood I was shooting is not you're normal plywood(7/8" hardened and waterproof, they use it for building the forms for pouring concrete walls on hirise buildings, an 8ft span will support over half a ton), and it went through it and still went through a steel drum.....suburban spudgunner wrote:My camera gets a bit wierd in cold weather...And I didn't know I had a deformed finger...
These work great, even out of my crappy little ball valve pneumatic. Let me see if I can figure out how to link to the video...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vV02HrkRHY
we don't want to hear about some spudder accidently ventilating a family member....
- suburban spudgunner
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I've always got something behind what I'm shooting, and I always use something I'm sure will stop the projectile.jeepkahn wrote: My one concern with your video is "WHAT'S BEHIND YOUR BACKSTOP"???... I'm not bragging(because mine is anything but the most powerful on here), but with my small coax and my darts, unless I hit a framing stud, the dart would've ended up in the house with a vengance<sic>.... Did I mention that the plywood I was shooting is not you're normal plywood(7/8" hardened and waterproof, they use it for building the forms for pouring concrete walls on hirise buildings, an 8ft span will support over half a ton), and it went through it and still went through a steel drum.....
we don't want to hear about some spudder accidently ventilating a family member....
As for the ghetto range I've got set up right now, I've never shot anything through that barrel with my pneumatic, and I've always got more protection behind (i.e. the numerous pieces of plywood leaning against my house). And, just as with any shooting range, if there's anyone besides me out there while I'm shooting, I require that they're either behind me or very far away. Admittedly, my range could use some improvement (I plan to put some shielding on the sides of the target).
Besides this, I own one of the weaker guns on here: there's no way I'd get the kind of power that you're talking about.
The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
- john bunsenburner
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Well always better safe than sorry suburban... If you would shoot more "average" projectile like marbles or pellets I would of recomended to make an "ammo catcher(yes this has a real name which doesnt come to me right now)" Out of a few old rags and blanckets... But you you are doing sounds ver plausible to, and it is very conforting to hear that you dont let people stand infront or right next to you when you shoot, shows that you are catious and aware of yoyur guns power and uncontralability. I like the ideas of improving your range as it will definately provide a certain amount of extra safety. Perhaps though you could build up you range so you shoot away from your house, besides of coarse if there is some kind of path way or road there. Last but not least i am not quiete sure if ply wood will really be ablt t stop your projectile, maybe put some bricks behind a few layers of ply wood, just in case.
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