Build Log. Select fire airsoft/bb Bullpup
- sinister_shadows
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Just a quick update, the body for this build arrived, started work on the barrel, length is not finial and just have one coat of paint to see how it looks, got to clean up where it joins into the body. fake plastic scope on it just for lols. the attachments for the body wont show up for about 4 weeks
- jackssmirkingrevenge
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Looks promising, good luck with it! I always thought mating an airsoft "shell" with higher performance pneumatic components was a quick and easy way to get a powerful launcher that also looked the business, surprised more people haven't done it.
Here's one good example I can think of by irisher: http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/mini-uz ... 18044.html
Here's one good example I can think of by irisher: http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/mini-uz ... 18044.html
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
- wyz2285
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jackssmirkingrevenge wrote:Looks promising, good luck with it! I always thought mating an airsoft "shell" with higher performance pneumatic components was a quick and easy way to get a powerful launcher that also looked the business, surprised more people haven't done it.
Price. A crappy plastic springer cost 50 euros here. Not to mention that it's not sold in stores, you have to order online.
CpTn_lAw wrote: "yay, me wanna make big multishot pnoob with 1000 psi foot pump compressor using diamond as main material. Do you think wet bread make good sealant? "
- jackssmirkingrevenge
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Compared to the cost and effort of making your own furniture, even 50 euros isn't so bad - but I was referring more to the US members who can get something like that for $20, or free if you have a look around the used market.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
- sinister_shadows
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Shells not cheap. 40$ aud + post for it. All that was in it was some leds and a rumble motor. Its going to have a much better home as an air soft/ Bob gun. It will also be a nice display item when I'm done with it
Where is my cut in all these transactions?wyz2285 wrote:Use a solenoid to open a hammer valve is not that easy, at least from my experience. Zeus if you have time do you want to build a circuit for me too? It's similar to this one, I think we can work out a price.
You need to apply double the voltage on your solenoid for good results on a hammer valve.
Example; 6 VDC solenoid use 12 VDC. 12 VDC solenoid use 24 VDC.
You need to reduce the duty cyle for this type of operation to prevent solenoid coil overheating.
- wyz2285
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Sorry dewey-1, should have mentioned you.
There goes my question: the daystate airwolf has a traditional hammer valve, not counter balanced like btb's, the power to actuate the solenoid is a 16v cap, how could that worked??? The solenoid most does one hell of a strike...
There goes my question: the daystate airwolf has a traditional hammer valve, not counter balanced like btb's, the power to actuate the solenoid is a 16v cap, how could that worked??? The solenoid most does one hell of a strike...
CpTn_lAw wrote: "yay, me wanna make big multishot pnoob with 1000 psi foot pump compressor using diamond as main material. Do you think wet bread make good sealant? "
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Looking into sourcing bb's from south oz, some air soft is still legal...ish there (Chinese importer me thinks).. am sure sorry for butting into what might be old or irrelivant. Speedyballs!
- sinister_shadows
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A lot of parts have arrived now. So building has started.
Worked on the magizine tube, feeds bb well but I think I'll need to use a detent. Sometimes when the next Bb feeds into the barrel it will roll, causing the next round to chamber resulting in double feeds, so I figure if I put a detent just in front of where the mag is it won't allow them to roll, but will let them sit fully into the barrel.
I'm also going to have to run the qev to barrel connection in a way that will hurt performance so everything will fit. The gun will only be used at 20-30m anyway so no big loss.
Worked on the magizine tube, feeds bb well but I think I'll need to use a detent. Sometimes when the next Bb feeds into the barrel it will roll, causing the next round to chamber resulting in double feeds, so I figure if I put a detent just in front of where the mag is it won't allow them to roll, but will let them sit fully into the barrel.
I'm also going to have to run the qev to barrel connection in a way that will hurt performance so everything will fit. The gun will only be used at 20-30m anyway so no big loss.
- sinister_shadows
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Finially a proper update, with some pics
Mostly finished the barrel and mag. Decided to go along the top of the barrel instead of a T due to lack of space. gotta do some cleanup and slot the mag tube. A keychain retracter is going to be used to pull the bbs though the tube. Because im using metal bbs i have some rare-earth magnets ill use to stop the bbs rolling out of the barrel.
Only parts im waiting for now is the tube for the firing chamber and the tube for the main fill tank. Sadly after trying different configs with the parts it has become clear that the main tank is going to have to be outside the body of the styer. Unless i hack at the body its not going to fit and im more interested in keeping it looking pretty then portable. It will be on display most of the time.
Red dot and scope are nice. 6-24x50 on the scope with red/green illumination and intensity adjustment. Red dot has 4 different reticules and red/green illumination with intensity adjustment.
Waiting on the laser and 45 degree offset mount for the red dot, other then that body is complete
Mostly finished the barrel and mag. Decided to go along the top of the barrel instead of a T due to lack of space. gotta do some cleanup and slot the mag tube. A keychain retracter is going to be used to pull the bbs though the tube. Because im using metal bbs i have some rare-earth magnets ill use to stop the bbs rolling out of the barrel.
Only parts im waiting for now is the tube for the firing chamber and the tube for the main fill tank. Sadly after trying different configs with the parts it has become clear that the main tank is going to have to be outside the body of the styer. Unless i hack at the body its not going to fit and im more interested in keeping it looking pretty then portable. It will be on display most of the time.
Red dot and scope are nice. 6-24x50 on the scope with red/green illumination and intensity adjustment. Red dot has 4 different reticules and red/green illumination with intensity adjustment.
Waiting on the laser and 45 degree offset mount for the red dot, other then that body is complete
- wyz2285
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Somehow I think you'll find that "3-way" valve is useless, but I could be wrong. If you bought it on ebay and it was less than 30 dollars you probably gonna have a bad time.
CpTn_lAw wrote: "yay, me wanna make big multishot pnoob with 1000 psi foot pump compressor using diamond as main material. Do you think wet bread make good sealant? "
- sinister_shadows
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That does not sound good The 555 timer is being built around the 24v this valve requires. So if it dosent work im going to have a real bad time.
This is the 3way, indeed ebay and indeed $30. Had bad experiences with them?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/380530075392 ... 013wt_1084
This is the 3way, indeed ebay and indeed $30. Had bad experiences with them?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/380530075392 ... 013wt_1084
- wyz2285
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I'm afraid that you may find out that valve doesn't do what you want.
CpTn_lAw wrote: "yay, me wanna make big multishot pnoob with 1000 psi foot pump compressor using diamond as main material. Do you think wet bread make good sealant? "
- sinister_shadows
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It needs to fill and port the qev. It has 3 threads in it marked A-P-R.
What stops it from filling and porting? I figure you have had plenty of expierence with 3ways (not a innuendo)
What stops it from filling and porting? I figure you have had plenty of expierence with 3ways (not a innuendo)