Mega Build (3" ported valve)
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- Private 4
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Well I completed building a 3" ported piston valve. I have not tested it yet, but i have confidence in my build (will test it tomorrow). The piston will most likely be overhauled once it gives way and will be improved. The entire thing is housed in a 4" T coupler, and can be taken apart for repair.
I did not use a lathe. I was however a bit sloppy with the glue, that can be fixed though.
What I'm asking you all is what should i do with it? What should the cannon be haha. (No I will not be entering this in the competition, this is just for fun.) Any suggestions, comments, and questions are welcome. I am more then happy to go into detail of what I used, but only for non-commercial purposes. Cheers!
I did not use a lathe. I was however a bit sloppy with the glue, that can be fixed though.
What I'm asking you all is what should i do with it? What should the cannon be haha. (No I will not be entering this in the competition, this is just for fun.) Any suggestions, comments, and questions are welcome. I am more then happy to go into detail of what I used, but only for non-commercial purposes. Cheers!
Last edited by Zorrowannabe9 on Mon Apr 09, 2007 9:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- super spuder
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make the biggest cannon you possibly can for it
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- Private 4
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its a 3" ABS cap, 6"section of 3" ABS pipe, and a 3" "Quick cap" (a rubber endcap)
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I will know tomorrow, I'm assuming yes. The rubber is about as soft as inner tubes.
Very nice valve here... good construction, and it looks powerful too!
A few questions...
1) Is the piston removable?
2) What are the hex-head screws/bolts for?
3) If the hex-head screws/bolts are for removing the front end, which allows access to the piston, what seals the front end?
Once again, great job on this; be proud! I am beginning to see a lot of people use the fact that 3" fittings fit perfectly inside of 4" SCH 40 pipe! I see you used this in your inlet, your outlet, and your piston design. I used it as well on my 3" porting piston valve.
Whatever you build, I am sure it will be awesome! Good Luck!
EDIT:
4) What are you using as a bumper?
A few questions...
1) Is the piston removable?
2) What are the hex-head screws/bolts for?
3) If the hex-head screws/bolts are for removing the front end, which allows access to the piston, what seals the front end?
Once again, great job on this; be proud! I am beginning to see a lot of people use the fact that 3" fittings fit perfectly inside of 4" SCH 40 pipe! I see you used this in your inlet, your outlet, and your piston design. I used it as well on my 3" porting piston valve.
Whatever you build, I am sure it will be awesome! Good Luck!
EDIT:
4) What are you using as a bumper?
Last edited by Velocity on Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Private 4
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1)yes
2)holding the front end on
3)the front end is sealed with some silicon compound, like the stuff used in sealing showers (its adhesive, but removable)
Thanks for the complement, its always nice to hear praise. Hopefully it'll work
2)holding the front end on
3)the front end is sealed with some silicon compound, like the stuff used in sealing showers (its adhesive, but removable)
Thanks for the complement, its always nice to hear praise. Hopefully it'll work
- Blitz
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I'm interested in seeing how well your piston performs -- I made one similar to what yours, except for inside a 2" tee. Maybe if you get the chance, take a picture of your piston assembly.
How'd you port the inside of the tee, is that the coupler you mentioned?
How'd you port the inside of the tee, is that the coupler you mentioned?
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Very nice. I like the access bolts location. I also plan on placing the bolts to disassemble the valve at the outlet of my next general purpose valve.
I have never been too fond of the idea that the heavily modified part of the tee and fittings is taking the force of the piston slamming back.
Is that little bitty brass box your exhaust valve? Unless you have o-rings on the piston or that box has a surprising amount of flow, I wouldn't think it would be able to fire the valve.
I have never been too fond of the idea that the heavily modified part of the tee and fittings is taking the force of the piston slamming back.
Is that little bitty brass box your exhaust valve? Unless you have o-rings on the piston or that box has a surprising amount of flow, I wouldn't think it would be able to fire the valve.
- super spuder
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i want to make a piston valve but i dont know how, it lookes too complicated
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In some ways it does have an o-ring. There is a complete rubber ring around it that doubles as the sealing face. Im hoping that it will be able to actuate the valve, but if not I have ballvalves, a QEV, sprinkler valves...etc.clide wrote: Is that little bitty brass box your exhaust valve? Unless you have o-rings on the piston or that box has a surprising amount of flow, I wouldn't think it would be able to fire the valve.
- schmanman
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yes, nice! I agree with everything rmich said. although you may want to go with a bigger pilot valve, for better preformance.rmich732 wrote:Very nice valve here... good construction, and it looks powerful too!
A few questions...
1) Is the piston removable?
2) What are the hex-head screws/bolts for?
3) If the hex-head screws/bolts are for removing the front end, which allows access to the piston, what seals the front end?
Once again, great job on this; be proud! I am beginning to see a lot of people use the fact that 3" fittings fit perfectly inside of 4" SCH 40 pipe! I see you used this in your inlet, your outlet, and your piston design. I used it as well on my 3" porting piston valve.
Whatever you build, I am sure it will be awesome! Good Luck!
EDIT:
4) What are you using as a bumper?
I used it as well, but made my porting interchangeable (3 inch and 4 inch.)
Persistence is a measure of faith in yourself